Smelling of Red Roses in Snow {Ask Chantal-Hélène}

A reader, E., sent me both a very interesting and moving question: "I am looking for a spicy rose scent for fall, heading to heavier rose in winter. Think headily fragrant red roses in snow." It is an interesting question because it pushes you to think in terms of finding a specific red rose note - possibly cooled down and purified by a snow accord - as opposed to any beautiful rose scent in general.

It is moving because, as I learned later, the reason E. is searching for that scent is that it is linked with the affective memory of the garden of her mother who passed away last summer. I hope you will be able to help her as well. May I add that E. hopes to find that rose scent that will make people say "I just smelled roses".

Here's my answer...

Dear E.,

There are few rose scents that I really like because I am not a die-hard rose fan and asking for a red rose is even trickier for me but also very interesting. The first thought that came to my mind when you asked me about a spicy rose scent was to think of La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty. It is discontinued but although rare it is not impossible to come by it. OK, but this not very practical advice. A modern perfume that is close to it is Rose d'Eté by Les Parfums de Rosine but it is based on a yellow rose. The whole line of Les Parfums de Rosine is worth exploring for you since all of their perfumes are based on a rose theme.

The Jo Malone red roses cologne will satisfy you in the top notes and middle notes because it smells very much like the flower itself but I find the dry down a bit lacking in body and depth. These colognes are supposed to be layered with each others so you might want to experiment a bit by yourself and see if you can create your perfect combination.

Garnet by Sage is based on a Moroccan red rose; The King of Hearts by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab has a red rose note; Burberry Brit Red by Burberrys too; Ava Luxe has a new perfume called Roses and an older one called Bohemian rose. I would try them if only because her perfumes are usually good.

Paestum Rose by Le Sirenuse is spicy.

A heavier rose scent that I like very much is Le Maroc pour Elle by Andy Tauer. You could also try Sa Majesté la Rose by Serge Lutens. [...]

You can find the scents I mentioned to you at Aedes, Luckyscent, Luscious Cargo (all are online retail spaces for niche scents), Jo Malone is at Neiman Marcus. You could perhaps try ordering a custom-made scent from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz or Ava Luxe or Susanne Lang at Saks 5th Avenue (the latter is a less elaborate process than with the two first).

If I ever come across a rose scent I think you might like, I will let you know. You have actually triggered a curiosity in me for finding that very natural-smelling (red) rose scent. Perhaps readers will make suggestions too.

One of the only rose scents that I have ever liked is Paris by Yves Saint Laurent. He also has summer editions each year that are a bit different.

Now I remember there is Ava Luxe's White which has a snow accord. Perhaps you could try layering it with a red rose scent and see how it turns out.

Love,
Chantal-Hélène

Photo is called Snow Brave Red Roses and is borrowed from mooseyscountrygarden.com