A Comment by Will Andrews On TSS About Rock 'N Rose By Valentino, Some Thoughts on Authorship in Perfumery {Perfume History & Facts} {Scented Thoughts}
We got an interesting comment by perfumer William Andrews regarding Rock 'N Rose by Valentino. He turns out to be one of the creators of the fragrance and not its sole conceiver. In this case also we had initially quoted our information from Cosmetic News. Here is the correction that he added:
"[...]The fragrance was actually developed by the P&G Fragrance Creation team in close partnership with Mr Valentino & Quest. It was not solely developed by me. We describe the fragrance as a 'fantasy rose' scent, part of our Floral Soft-Rosy-Florals family.[...]" Please see the initial post for reference.
It is a very interesting comment, like the others we received on TSS from other professionals from the industry, because it shows how the notion of authorship in perfumery can be much more complex than advertised. Rather than to think generally about an author of a perfume after the model of a writer, it seems appropriate in many cases to think about a plural effort, which brings to mind the model of a film production team. Parallel to that reality is the more ideological debate existing between perfumers who simply don't seem to care about being seen as the singular author of a fragrance and others who think that it is important that the notion be clarified.
We can be reminded that the figure of the writer emerged historically in the 17th century at which time that his/her social function was recognized. It seems to me that a similar tension is apparent here and that the lack of institutionalization of the function of the perfumer opens a space for debate. There is a certain push in the media to simplify the question and I find it fascinating that the perfumers themselves remind us of the intricacies of their profession.
Rock N' Rose is available at Bergdorf Goodman where it is currently sold in exclusivity. The 3 oz flacon retails for $78.
"The fragrance is created as a perfect balance between edgy modernity and Valentino's elegance and tradition.
• Top notes of bergamot, black currant, and crunch green.
• Middle notes of orange blossom, gardenia, muguet, and rose.
• Base notes of sandalwood, orris, musky notes, vanilla, and heliotrope."
Sources: William Andrews, Bergdorf Goodman
BG may *think* they have exclusive rights; but I saw it on sale in my local Nordstrom (Durham, NC) just the other day...