Lilac, Neroli and Chamomile, Leaves, Magnolia by elizabethW {Perfume Short (Reviews)}

After reviewing Vetiver by elizabethW, we are now turning our attention to four other eaux de parfum from the house: Lilac, Neroli & Chamomile, Leaves, Magnolia. The quality, we find, is uneven with Lilac standing out as the most interesting one from the selection.

Lilac is a pure, unadulterated lilac soliflore from head to toe. It is wonderfully fragrant and smells like the living flower. The scent is our favorite in this series that we were able to sample. It smells cool and bluish, very fresh, very dewy, with just the faintest hint of powder. It then further along takes on an intoxicating turn, a new intensity whithout losing its green sappy overtones. The perfume with time becomes slightly spicy-sweet like lilacs naturally are. There is nothing much to add except to stress that it is all about lilac, lilac, and then lilac again and feels exactly like you are burying your face in their petals........

The official description says: "Romantic, fresh, intensely floral. A single note from boughs of spring-time lilacs brightened with subtle hints of jasmine, neroli, and freesia."

Neroli and Chamomile surprisingly for a house that seems intent on proposing pure, simple scents, does not really smell like any of these two flowers. It is a more abstract perfume that is quite powdery and sweet. It smells more to our nose of almond and cherry and of a slightly dough-y accord. It reminds us of Bois Farine by l'Artisan Parfumeur and also of the leathery treatment of orange blossom in Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens. The dry-down is not as well done as with some of the other fragrances and smells a bit synthetic and cheap to our nose.

The official description says:  "Nurturing, tranquil, softly soothing. A floral bouquet of neroli, ylang ylang and iris extracts, enlivened by the rich balsamic, freshly herbal notes and wild roses enhanced with hawthorn."

Leaves might have suggested the scent of crushed green leaves to one's imagination. It is a somewhat green and woody scent with citrusy accents, but not as vividly realistic or green as one would have anticipated. The dry-down here too is not the best and smells a bit similar to that of Neroli and Chamomile.

The official description says: "Fresh, evocative, clean. A soft, woody base of Atlas cedar and sandalwood balance amber with green, leafy top notes."

Magnolia is a nice fresh aquatic floral with a hint of cream at first that smells more of peony and litchi and then gardenia to our nose. The drydown is rather lovely, rich, and creamy without being cloying. It is a pretty scent. 

The official description says: "Soft, feminine, sensual. White magnolia petals deepened with saffron and sandalwood, mingle with mimosa and gardenia."

In conclusion, the most interesting one of the four fragrances presented here in our opinion is Lilac followed by Magnolia. It is possible that Leaves and Neroli & Chamomile do not agree with our body chemistry. We note nevertheless that main-note compositions seem to be elizabethW's forte.

Lilac lovers definitely ought to check out Lilac by elizabethW!