On The Workings Of A Niche Perfume House: Etat Libre d'Orange {The 5th Sense in the News}
Etienne de Swardt tells it like it is in an interview with The Australian. The article is interesting, in particular, in that it clarifies the relationship between the Parisian niche perfume house Etat Libre d'Orange founded by de Swardt and the much more behemoth-like Geneva-based fragrance company Givaudan. This David-and-Goliath privileged partnership allows the house to maintain its competitive edge in their access to cutting-edge raw materials and technology.....
One has to realize that "niche" here is mainly about a cultural and artistic attitude towards perfume and that ELd'O is the tree that hides a forest.
The article also offers frank price pointers as to the value of the jus the consumer finds in a perfume bottle, data that is not usually flaunted in such a precise way. If most people were pleasantly surprised back in 2006 when first trying out the perfumes made by this newcomer of a brand, noting their good quality, here is an explanation why.
"When you develop a fragrance for a big house, the cost of the formulation is usually E70 ($110), but with Etat Libre d'Orange it's usually between E500 and E800 because we use very high cost ingredients," de Swardt says. "That is one of the pleasures for the perfumers, but it's a crazy ratio of costs. Our relationship with Givaudan allows us to retail at around E55 per 50ml, but if I do a very expensive bottle it becomes impossible to stick to that E55."
Stay tuned for our upcoming review of Tom of Finland, their latest creation.
Thank you for posting this interview. It's allways interesting to know more. But 500-800 EUR the concentrate of ELO, I preffer not to comment that. Then what about Serge Lutens? :)