Wienerblut Volkamaria, Indisch Leder, Florentiner, Panasch (2012) {New Perfumes}
Belle-Epoque nostalgia abounds in the universe of Viennese perfume house Wienerblut founded in 2008 by Austro-American artistic director Alexander Lauber {See our interview}, a fact which is confirmed with four new historical unisex fragrances to appear this spring 2012 with the tag line "Party like it's 1899". The compositions are entitled Volkamaria, Indisch Leder, Florentiner, Panasch and were all created in collaboration with Parisian perfumer Pierre-Constantin Gueros...
The same vein of inspiration which led to the creation of Klubwasser is presiding over the rebirth of these four perfumes resulting from the revisits of perfume formulas from Imperial Vienna.
Volkamaria (Volcameria) centers on "a sublime floral accord" featuring the tropical flower Volcameria, also known as Clerodendron Fragrans. "WienerBlut acquired and cultivated specimens of this plant before actually deconstructing and rebuilding the original recipe."
Top: Calabrian Bergamot, Green Mandarine, Olibanum Resin
Middle: Iris de Florence, Iris de France, Moroccan Rose, Heliotrope
Base: Tonka Beans, White Woods, Benzoin Resin
Indisch Leder (Indian Leather) is inspired by Archduke Franz Ferdinand’s Grand Tour of Ceylon and
British India in the 1890s. The scent is said to offer a "powerful opening of aged cognac wood, dry prunes and saffron pistills, accompanied by the glowing sweetness of Indian davana and followed
by a massive core of dark, resinous woods and heavy leather."
Top: Saffron Pistills, Prune, Cognac, Sicilian Bergamot, Davana Flowers
Middle: Patchouli Leaves, Peru Balsam, Lavender, Oakwood
Base: Cistus Labdanum, Oakmoss, Amber, Musk
Florentiner (Florentine) pays hommage to the Habsburg’s regency as Grand Dukes of Tuscany. The press material describe this interpretation of an Eau de Cologne as being a nocturnal variation on Farina's opus.
Top: Pimenta Leaves, Sicilian Bergamot, Bitter Orange, Ginger, Mandarine
Middle: Green Tea, Lavender Abrialis, Rosemary, Petitgrain, Ylang Ylang, Cedarwood
Base: Labdanum Drops, Vetiver Haiti, Patchouli Indonesia, Benzoin Resin
Panasch (Plume) is a wormwood, absinth concoction inspired by the political and war cry of a king of France: „Ralliez-vous à mon panache blanc!“ – Follow my white panache! The war cry of King Henry IV states the obvious: Panasch isn’t meant to be worn by regular infantry."
Top: Pink Pepper, Black Pepper, Cedarleaf, Elemi Resin, Violet Leaves
Middle: Wormwood, Armoise, Fir Balsam, Cedarwood Atlas
Base: Tonka Beans, Vetiver Root, Patchouli Indonesia
Stay tuned for reviews
