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By Chant Wagner

Hermès Les Colognes Eau de Narcisse Bleu & Eau de Mandarine Ambrée (2013) {New Perfumes}

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Hermès are launching two new fragrances as part of their Les Colognes collection now comprising five works. Eau de Mandarine Ambrée (Ambery Mandarin Water) and Eau de Narcisse Bleu (Blue Narcissus Water) come to complete the fresh library which is said to be projected to expand over the years. Both compositions are by in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena...

 “I strongly believe in the development of the cologne collection,” said Catherine Fulconis, Hermès Parfums’ chief executive officer. “We have the ambition to create a territory that will be faceted and strong in our offer, which will grow each year.” 

The precursor to the collection was launched in 1979; it was - and still is today the by now classic - Eau d'Orange Verte. In 2009, there were two new additions Eau de Pamplemousse Rose and Eau de Gentiane Blanche.

Continuing to build the universe of the colognes, Hermès each time color-code the fragrances since the beginnings of the "green orange" cologne. This year with Eau de Narcisse Bleu, perfumer Ellena wanted also to suggest a rough texture and think more about the sense of touch.

Notes include blue narcissus, orange blossom, galbanum, woods. 

"A contemporary fragrance that looks at Cologne in a whole new light.

A style of writing that combines a dense and textured narcissus note with a delicate woody accord in a muted contrast."
 
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Eau de Mandarine Ambrée is said to offer a less complex signature, "A cologne to reinvent classicism: both stunning yet mild. A joyful freshness with an amber signature that provides mischievous vitality."
 
Notes include green mandarin, passion fruit, amber.
 
In 2009, nose Jean-Claude Ellena likewise created a more difficult composition - Eau de Gentiane Blanche - which he characterized as being meant more for connoisseurs, and an easier one - Eau de Pamplemousse Rose in order perhaps to strike a sense of balance between commercialism and creativity but distributed in two perfumes instead of compromising within both formulations, which he could have done, say, by relying on easier top notes and more difficult base notes.
 
The scents will be available from April 1st 2013. 
 
"The two new colognes will be available in 100ml and 200ml versions, priced at 89 euros and 117 euros on the French market, or $117.61 and $154.61 at current exchange, respectively."
 
Via WWD & Hermès

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