L'Artisan Parfumeur Explosions d'Emotions in Three Times (2013) {New Fragrances}
L'Artisan Parfumeur will release a new collection of perfumes comprising a trio from September 2013. Entitled Explosions d'Emotions, the series includes Amour Nocturne about the intimacy of the night, Déliria about the intoxication of the senses and Skin on Skin inspired by a carnal embrace...
Something about the description is reminiscent of the inspiration for Séville à l'Aube but as if the scenario had been decomposed into three stages. While the general narrative seems familiar, the notes are vastly different, a bit as if perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour had decided to offer freer and more luxurious versions of something that has stuck in his mind.
In Amour Nocturne (Nocturnal Love), the nose follows an idea of "infinite tenderness becoming extasis, a contemplation of the other, of oneself". A note of cedar wood is wrapped with warm milk and caramel leading to more suprising notes of gunpowder and orchid. This reminds us of the warm milk and honey accord in Poivre Piquant by l'Artisan Parfumeur, also by him; gunpowder has made a noteworthy entrance in perfumery with Comme des Garçons Amazingreen last year, not by him.
Déliria is about a delirium of the senses. The nose has visibly worked on sensations of slight disorientations describing the ensuing sensations as vague and the atmosphere indistinctive. "Déliria is about the crazy contrast between jarring metal, the intoxication of rum and stunning gourmand notes of spun sugar and candied apple." The most intriguing part is when the perfumer explains that "without any sense of direction, the head and base notes meet in the heart which is sucked by the void," This last part reminds us of the sensation we experienced with Duchaufour's perfume for Penhaligon's, Amaranthine.
Skin on Skin is said to be animalic. It "awakens your basic instincts, pushes you to get closer, touch and smell," The perfume reportedly includes a note of sensual iris together with velvety suede; saffron, whiskey, lavender, rose, musks create a skin-like effect.
The use of boozy notes of rum then whiskey will recall to some Duchaufour's work for the house of Frapin.
It is normal to see recurring themes in a perfumer's work as they soon become part of his or her palette of accords. Since it takes time to perfect accords and secure critical distance - even if evaluators are there to help - and oftentimes noses have different ideas they want to try, alternate possibilities get expressed at a later date along the course of their careers.
Having said that, L'Artisan Parfumeur stress the presence of "innovative materials" while underlining the fact that they gave carte blanche to the perfumer. The three works which we have given a discursive interpretation of are said to be distinct from each others.
The Eaux de Parfum are priced at 165€ for 125 ml. The flacons reprise the shape of bottles they've used so far only for their home fragrances.
