Perfume and cuisine, perfume and beverages, the possibilities are endless as taste and smell are so inter-dependent. Gourmand perfumes, fragrances with a wine or spirits note tentalize the senses. Perfumer Jean-Michel Duriez composed once a cocktail directly inspired by Joy by Patou. More recently mixologist Tony Conigliaro devised a cocktail based on Chanel No 5. In September, visitors to Paris will be able to taste an original concoction called Bombay Bahia created by perfumer Céline Ellena of Charabot together with the director of the bar of the Plaza Athénée in Paris, Thierry Hernandez...
Angelina Jolie to be Face of New Armani Perfume: The Big Charisma Campaign {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume}
UNHCR Goodwill
Ambassador Angelina Jolie attends the 2009 World Refugee Day at the
National Geographic Society on June 18, 2009 in Washington, DC.
Hot off the wires. Actress Angelina Jolie has been announced as the face of the next Armani perfume. The advertising campaign is said to kick off later this year in 2009. Jolie recently was listed as celebrity # 1 by Forbes Magazine, which could only have helped Armani wade through the candidates' list...
DL Paris L'Eau Blanche by Francis Kurkdjian, Terre d'Hermes L'Extrait, Top 5 Men's Perfumes in France {Fragrance News} {Fashion Notes}
Didier Ludot, the little black dress expert and designer, will launch a new fashion line called DL Palais Royal that will be previewed at Under Le Louvre from June 26th and debut at Colette on July 6th and run until July 18th 2009. This is to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the label. The collection consists in...
Kasia Smutniak is the Face of Armani Idole {Fragrance News}
Following a previous announcement on the upcoming feminine fragrance by Armani, Idole, it has now been made official that model Kasia Smutniak will be the face of the perfume. Giorgio Armani said he chose the young woman because,
"I chose Kasia to be the face of my
new fragrance, IDOLE d'ARMANI, because she has a fresh and modern
appeal which combines true feminine sensuality and rare beauty with
inner strength of character. She embodies the spirit of the IDOLE
d'ARMANI woman perfectly",
Guerlain Presents Idylle with Nora Arzeneder & Ora Ito {Fragrance News} {Perfume Images}
Guerlain held a presentation of their upcoming women's perfume Idylle on June 17, 2009 at their Champs-Elysées boutique with fragrance spokesperson actress Nora Arzeneder and designer Ora Ito who conceived the bottle (he is on the right)...
Claudia Schiffer to be Face of Latest Alberta Ferretti Perfume - Update {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume}
Claudia Schiffer at the Amend Charity
Luncheon with Michelle Yeoh at the Hotel Du Cap during the 62nd
International Cannes Film Festival on May 22, 2009 in Antibes, France.
Model Claudia Schiffer will be the spokesperson for the new Alberta Ferretti perfume developed with Elizabeth Arden, Inc. one of the major labels specializing in celebrity fragrances. This is not her first perfume venture as there already was a Femina by Alberta Ferretti launched in 1993 which is currently not advertised in the press spiel from the brand electing to stress the novel feeling of a debut fragrance, just like the preferred spin was for Christina Aguilera in the past. Proteo Parfumi, Procter and Gamble have launched Alberta Ferretti fragrances in the past. The launch this time is more high-profile though. The latest perfume which remains unnamed thus far will launch in the fall of 2009 with an advertising campaign shot by Mert & Marcus.
Ferretti chose the ex-Karl Lagerfeld muse for her iconic character, her brand of sensuality and most importantly for her sense of identity,...
Michael Kors Fragrance Leg Shine Collection (2009) {Shopping Tip} {Fragrance News}
Interesting new way to perfume yourself. Michael Kors has launched a collection of tinted solid creams to be applied onto your legs perfumed with the signature Michael Kors fragrance, a heady and clean tuberose scent.
From a purely olfactory point of view, there is some virtue in wearing your fragrance on your legs as the scent will waft up towards you. In fact, the pulse spot behind your knees is one that you are often advised to use, as well as ankles just so as to sexy them up. If you can add some shimmer to your gams at the same time, it is all benefit to you...
Calvin Klein CK One Collector: The Ecological Edition (Summer 2009) {Fragrance News - New Packaging}
Attention perfume bottle collectors and greens! Calvin Klein will release a special edition of CK One this summer which is part of an ecological initiative conducted together with the association Planète Urgence....
Rosé Wine Will Not Be Changed by EU Legislation {Fragrance News - Wine}
Following the mobilization of professional associations of rosé wine-makers as well as of the State in France, the European Commission has decided to back down on its intention to have the European Union adopt what traditional wine-makers consider to be sheer mercantilism: the production of rosé by cutting or blending red wine with white wine.
The pink color of rosé traditionally results from the prolonged contact of grape juice with grape skin...
Viktor & Rolf To Launch New Women's Perfume in July 2009 {Fragrance News}
The essential news here is that Viktor & Rolf will unveil a new women's fragrance in July 2009 in Paris. Beyond that, all lips are sealed at this point on the details of the launch...
Harajuku Lovers Snow Bunnies Collection (2009): Wrapping Up Warmly for Winter {Fragrance News - New Packaging}
Harajuku Lovers before and after
Gwen Stefani will offer a sartorial twist on the Harajuku Lovers collection of cute-and-cuter little dolls containing perfumes. In September the girls are back as the Snow-Bunnies pack.
The fragrances remain the same but the wardrobe evolves to feature winter clothes. It could all go in the direction of the Barbie concept applied to perfume bottles.
Martin Margiela's Upcoming Perfumes {Fragrance News}
Martin Margiela looks
As previously announced, fashion designer Martin Margiela is set to launch his debut scent. It's now reported that it is a women's eau de toilette to be unveiled to the public in October 2009 in Paris....
Perfume Expo America in NYC: New Dates: June 30-July 2, 2009 {Fragrance News}
The beauty event organized by Perfume Expo America is now going to take place from June 30th to July the 2nd2009 at the Hilton Americas New York instead of June 11-12 for those who might be able to make it at those new dates.
More Kate Moss Celebrity Fragrance News: The Next YSL Perfume {Fragrance News}
As reported about last March 23, Kate Moss was sighted on a photo shoot in Paris identified as one for Yves Saint Laurent. The buzz started on the internet (blogs) and was confirmed 6 days later by Women's Wear Daily (non-open source) with the following statement,
"Kate Moss, who was in Paris during fashion week, stayed on for a
modeling assignment. Early last week, the supermodel did a shoot in
Place de la Concorde for a future women's fragrance for Yves Saint
Laurent, wearing looks from Stefano Pilati's pre-fall collection for
YSL."...
Kate Moss's Next Perfume Inspired by Vintage Fashion {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume}
Kate Moss let transpire at a press conference that her next perfume to be introduced in September 2009 is inspired by her love of vintage clothing and accessories...
Britney Spears's Faux Gay Perfume Ad for Mo {Fragrance News - Perfume Images}
After the authentically faux Louis Vuitton perfume ad that was circulated some time ago, we now have the official faux and authorized fragrance ad for Mo by Britney Spears.
The singer recorded a TV ad for theNewNowNext awards to pay homage to her reportedly significant gay following by acting in a pastiche of her own perfume ads for Curious, Believe and In Control which are portrayed as steps of progressive self-realization leading her to the Mo revelation...
Ambranextra by Moellhausen {Fragrance News - New Molecule}
Well, it's hard to resist the selling line for new kid in town perfume molecule Ambranextra although the pitch mainly targets perfumers and fragrance developers. But see what is the promise held by this new aromachemical which smells unique (and if you thought only a perfume reviewer could take off on flights of fancy, think again. It all starts in the labs)...
Kiehl's Essence Oils {Fragrance News - New Packaging} {Perfumista on a Shoestring}
Kiehl's have released a revamped and more extensive collection of their Essence Oils which total up to 122 different scents. They have selected 10 essences for the 2009 lineup.
A neat detail is that each essence is now dated with its year of introduction, an excellent way to know how a particular decade smelled!...
Recession in Russia Seen in Positive Light for the Future of Perfumery {Fragrance News}
A study conducted in Russia by consulting agency L'Agence de Lux concludes on an optimistic note regarding the effect of the recession on perfume-consuming behavior. Yep, there is an upside. It is all bound to encourage loyalty towards old brands and encourage people to be pickier thereby favoring a push towards higher quality in the end, according to the thinking heads at L'Agence de Lux....
All Twelve Chanel Les Exclusifs To Be Available Online Soon {Fragrance News} {Shopping Tip}
Chanel have announced that they will soon be offering the line of the 12 Les Exclusifs fragrances online on Chanel.com, date to be confirmed. This is a significant perfume marketing decision to take a boutique-exclusive collection to the internet to offer it greater visibility and accessibility online.
"A virtuoso collection of rare fragrances created by Chanel master parfumeurs. Twelve pure forms, twelve identical bottles. Luxuriously simple."
In other words, "niche" is going to be more about style than the distribution policy and a hyper-constructed constructed sense of luxury....
Paris Hilton Siren Teaser 2, Parfums 137 Hollywood Stromboli 1950 {New Fragrances - News Bites}
• Following up on Paris Hilton Teaser # 1, here is PH Teaser # 2. We can now reveal that...drum roll please...the next perfume by Paris Hilton, Siren, is a "creamy tropical floral" to be released in "June-July" (via press release)...
Highland Lilac of Rochester: The 2009 Harvest Edition {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}
Like each year the Lilac Festival of Rochester takes place and with it comes the year's vintage edition of the perfume Highland Lilac of Rochestercreated in 1967 under the impulse of Dan Morgan. The fragrance was reintroduced in 2003. It is dubbed an American classic and reportedly was presented to a number of first ladies.
Lilac does not yield its perfume by classic methods of extraction and so its bouquet must be recreated as an illusion, but in this case it appears that the perfumers at IFF attempt to reproduce each year's particular notes....
Alain Delon To Be Face of Dior Eau Sauvage: A Twist on Young & Famous {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume}
Dior in order to reach out to new, younger consumers as well as to help older generations reminisce is offering a twist on their next Eau Sauvage campaign. They have decided to take the unusual step of using a celebrity's face, French actor Alain Delon's, but as that person appeared when much younger.
This has been done for Liz Taylor before for her signature fragrance Diamonds, but it is far from common a practice, especially when applied to a brand different than one's own...
Guerlain Have Revamped Their Website {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}
I am so glad. Guerlain have finally revamped their website! I used to visit it episodically wishing each time to see some improvement, then ceased frequenting it because it was not very practical, and now it's happened. I could not quite understand why in the context of luxury brands proposing sophisticated websites, why on earth Guerlain seemed not to care about their online presence.
The previous website was very static merely acting as a catalogue, not even a comprehensive one at that. Things have changed as you can see by visiting the new destination (in French, English, Japanese and Chinese) at Guerlain.
The site looks stylish. It offers information even about their exclusive niche fragrance lines; they give a number of perfume-applying tips, perfume workshop information, fragrance consultations, historical outlines on their creators, associated artists, raw materials etc. You can even register to have your own space there and receive advance notices about new releases. It's still not an e-commerce site though...
Paris Hilton's Next Perfume Baby is Called Siren {Fragrance News - News Bites}
Paris Hilton is now from all available evidence the darling of the celebrity fragrance world. She is going to take home a FiFi celeb of the year award, as previously posted about. Parlux is moreover thanking her with a 5-year renewal contract.
We just learned that her next baby is called Siren, a logical step after Fairy Dust.
The next one after that could be called Nymph or Enchanteress or
Sorceress or Vamp -- oh, the endless possibilities! We think that Paris
is going to be able to take a long-view approach now to cover all the
feminine repertory of archetypes.
So far, the news have been
confirmed but mum is the word. You will have to wait a bit before
getting loud and clear details about Siren. Stay tuned...
Mona di Orio has introduced a new perfume called Chamarré and will be launching another new fragrance this year in September 2009 called Jabu.
A Mona di Orio creation is always something one can look forward to as her perfumes seem to be able to preserve a raw original force to them. The word that comes to my mind first and foremost is "authenticity", before "harmony", "beautiful", and "balance" although they contain all of those qualities but as if subordinated to an instinct for something more elemental.
Chamarré, is a French word designating something richly adorned and rutilating, with this idea that the sumptuous surfaces capture a changing, variegated and shimmering light with probably a dominance of golden color and diamond sparkle...
EU Court Allows Dior to Protect its Luxury Capital by Barring Resales in Discount Stores {Fragrance News}
If you never bought the Dior lingerie on sale at Filene's Basement in Boston back when it was still open for business because it immediately looked suspect and less upscale, well you were wrong or maybe not so wrong, depending on what level you think Dior will always be Dior. Is it because the label is technically authentic or because it comes with an aura that seems to dim considerably once found on the racks of a popular discount store? The European Union's Highest Court made a decision last Thursday in favor of Dior who think that their "prestigious image" will be damaged by discounters and who do not want to see their licensees pass on their merchandises freely, especially as the recession puts pressure on those...
Givenchy Worried about Miscommunication around the Arrival of Uma Thurman {Fragrance News - Celebrity Perfumes}
Parfums Givenchy sent a press communiqué three days ago as they wanted to clarify some mistaken assumptions about the arrival of Uma Thurman as their latest fragrance spokesperson. Apparently and as far as I was able to check on some boards and celebs site, some of those turned the event into some kind of mud-wrestling contest between Thurman and Liv Tyler.
At TSS, I assumed Givenchy was rather happy to have one more celebrity face and was not going to curtail their efforts in this thriving field. It's like adding one more diamond to your crown these days if you consider the examples of Coty and Parlux. But new details have surfaced at the same time, so for the fans of Uma Thurman, here is what you can expect...
Model Raquel Zimmermann poses for Fendi Palazzo, via mes-parfums.com.
The decision to axe Fendi Palazzo was announced on February the 10th 2009 by Women's Wear Daily. The perfume had benefited from glamorous advertising shot by Karl Lagerfeld, a bottle design to be remembered with its Mod representation of the Fendi Palazzo and was part of a new generation of fragrances said to be closely supervised by François Demachy who insisted that under his tenure his team would offer better quality control...
Upcoming New Perfumes in 2009 {Fragrance News - News Bites}
• Lorenzo Villoresi creator of the best-seller Teint de Neige has released the name of his new fragrance to be introduced in September 2009: it is titled MalenostromMare Nostrum...
New Celebrity Perfume Spokespersons {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Fragrances}
• Breaking news: Actress Uma Thurman is going to be Givenchy's next celebrity face for an upcoming feminine fragrance to be launched in September 2009. Givenchy is part of the Louis-Vuitton-Moët-Hennessy group (LVMH) and has already worked with celebs Marie Steiss - the eldest daughter of former French prime minister Dominique de Villepin - for Ange ou Démon, Justin Timberlake for Play, Liv Tyler for Very Irresistible and much earlier on in the past, Audrey Hepburn for L'Interdit. (WWD 4/10/09)...
Comme des Garçons Avignon Incense Sticks & Hinoki Candles (2009) {Fragrance News}
Comme des Garçons are launching new incarnations of two favorites from the brand. Avignon from the Incense series is now available in their original medium, so to speak, in incense sticks, and Hinoki now comes in two sizes of home candles sheltered by black glass.
Les Parfums Keiko Mecheri Offer a New Perfume Sample Program {Shopping Tip}
Fragrance samples are very popular amongst perfumistas, you can guess why. So I am glad to be able to report that Keiko Mecheri parfums have set up a brand new sampling program through their recently-launched website.
You have three main options: 1) you can order samples of all 30 fragrances from the collection for $48. They come in "a large coffer with blotter cards for smelling the scents. This is accompanied by a beautiful bound booklet explaining each scent and the philosophy of Keiko Mecheri."...
Berkeley Square Cosmetics Co. White Bergamot (2008) Nominated for the UK Beauty Awards {Fragrance News} {Green Products}
White Bergamot byBerkeley Square Cosmetics Co., is part of their Natural Couture collection, a library of scents that aims to appeal to both the sophisticated sorts and the green-minded.
The collection was developed together with the Victoria & Albert Museum and features the stylish fashion photographies of John French (1906-1966) on the packaging. But even beyond that, the scents from the collection, which also includes White Amber and White Muguet, were inspired by the photographies displayed at the exhibition on French's work, The Golden Age of Couture...
The Scented Salamander Featured in Vogue Russia {Fragrance News}
Yesterday, I got a lovely email from Daneen Baird of Spoiled Pretty letting me know that The Scented Salamander had been featured in Vogue Russia. An adorable Russian reader of hers did a scan of the article and sent it to Daneen who was featured in the article as well. Galina found the article in the May 2008 edition as she was reading through back issues.
I translated the text about The Scented Salamander in both English and French.
Many thanks to both Daneen and Galina for the news and the scans!
Author: perfume critic Marie-Hélène Wagner Specialty : New perfumes and cosmetics Updated : almost every day Why should you read it : for industry news and new releases in niche perfumery. On the blog you learn for example that Barbara Bui is going to resurrect her perfume line, that architect Jean Nouvel has redesigned the bottle of L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent. There is information about rare perfumes. The blog is well organized ; you can look up new releases by categories: celebrity perfumes, shopping ideas, reviews of new products, articles.
Auteur : la critique de parfum Marie-Hélène Wagner Spécialisation : nouveautés en parfumerie et cosmétiques Mise à jour: presque chaque jour Pourquoi il faut le lire: pour les nouvelles sur l'industrie du parfum et les nouveautés en parfumerie de niche. On apprend par exemple sur le blog que Barbara Bui va ressusciter sa ligne de parfums, que l'architecte Jean Nouvel a retravaillé le design du flacon de l'Homme d'Yves Saint Laurent. On y trouve des informations sur les parfums rares. Le blog est bien organisé: on peut rechercher les nouveautés par catégories : parfums de célébrités, idées shopping, comptes rendus de nouveautés, articles.
Rochas Fragrances Look towards the Future but by Relying on the Past {Fragrance News} More on Eau Sensuelle (2009) {New Perfume}
The probing of Rochas's intentions regarding the development of their perfume business under the new aegis of in-house perfumer Jean-Michel Duriez sheds light on the philosophy of the fragrance brand. As the perfume brand is preparing to launch Eau Sensuelle in April 2009, a flanker to Eau de Rochas, WWD got some interesting quotes from the people involved in the project...
More about Maison Francis Kurkdjian {Fragrance News} {Perfume Images}
Forbes is running three stories about luxury bespoke perfumers in recession times as part of their series "Thriving in the Downturn" and amongst those there is a video-reportage about Francis Kurkdjian's work...
Esxence: The Scent of Excellence Fair Show in Milan 2-5 April 2009 {Fragrance News}
Next month will take place in Milan, Italy, the first professional fair show dedicated to niche perfumery calledEsxence, The Scent of Excellence and tagged "The event of art perfumery". The show was organized by Celso Fadelli et Silvio Levi and aims, among other things, at promoting a new form of international distribution for niche perfume brands. 85 brands are said to participate to this inaugural edition.
From the 2nd to the 5th of April, 10.00 AM - 7.00 PM
By invitation only
Kate Moss's Shoot in Paris for New Yves Saint Laurent Perfume {Fragrance News - News Bites}
Kate Moss was reportedly seen shooting a perfume commercial for an upcoming new women's fragrance for Yves Saint Laurent. The paparazzi were there. Moss is holding a rose, Eiffel Tower in the back. According to WWD,
"Early last week, the supermodel did a shoot in Place de la Concorde for
a future women's fragrance for Yves Saint Laurent, wearing looks from
Stefano Pilati's pre-fall collection for YSL."
The increased scarcity of sandalwood and Mysore sandalwood in particular, considered to be the best of sandalwoods, has become the bane of the perfume industry. Fragrance supplier Symrise has now announced through perfumer Jean-Claude Delville that they were able to create a more natural-smelling sandalwood accord thanks to two newly designed synthetic molecules from the company: Sandal 80 and Sandranol,
"With Sandalwood being extremely expensive in India, and
of varying qualities and accessibility elsewhere, the company created Symrise
Sandal 80 and Sandranol, innovative new synthetic materials which bring a more
real and natural effect,"...
Upcoming Perfume Launches by Interparfums in 2009 & 2010 {Fragrance News} {New Perfumes}
Interparfums have announced a number of new perfume launches to watch out for in 2009 and 2010 (I only mention the ones that were not featured on the site yet):
• Féérie by Van Cleef & Arpels in an eau de toilette version (spring 2009)
• Paul Smith Men (Summer 2009)
• The Collection Extraordinaire by Van Cleef & Arpels (fall 2009)...
New Chanel No.5 Ad with Audrey Tautou by Jean-Pierre Jeunet {Fragrance News} {Perfume Adverts}
The first stills from the new commercial by director Jean-Pierre Jeunet for Chanel No. 5 have been released featuring actress Audrey Tautou and model Travis Davenport. The story manages to allude to the universe and era of Gabrielle Chanel in a number of indirect ways by situating the narrative on the Orient-Express with its Art Deco aesthetics, and showcasing an Audrey Tautou dressed in an atemporal manner yet reflective of Chanel's casual style and liking for sailmen's trousers for example, an outfit she wears on several known pictures of hers. In less allusive ways and very symbolically present, one finds the number 5 interpersed in the images of the movie which ends on the famous two intertwined Cs logo.
Less obviously night-time glamorous and glitzy than the ad shot by Baz Luhrman with Nicole Kidman five years ago, the TV commercial nevertheless makes a point to convey the idea that Chanel is all about ultimate luxury even when the tone has become more intimate. Jean-Pierre Jeunet who already did Amélie with Tautou was quoted as saying that
"Even in the world of advertising, it can be said that the house of
Chanel works in an unparalleled level of comfort, which allows you to
go to the absolute limits,"...
Fashionable Scents & Aromas in 2009: It's The Recession, Dummy {Fragrance News}
Persimmon will be en vogue in 2009
Analysts have looked at recent data plus wiped their crystal balls clean to bring you several forecasts. The trend will apparently be driven by the kind of logic under which Frutarom will operate themselves,
"Part of this year's budget is being channeled into developing
cheaper products that offer the same taste and smell sensations
as costlier alternatives."...
CPL Aromas Has Introduced a Range of 100% Organic Fragrance Ingredients {Fragrance News} {Green Products}
CPL Aromas is anticipating the growth of the organic green market and wants to participate in it. They have now launched a collection of organic (not just natural) raw materials which were available beforehand but were deemed not sustainable to introduce commercially. One caveat though at this point: the fine-fragrance market as we know it today will probably be not as interested in them as the personal-care market due to its increasingly sophisticated reliance on synthetically designed molecules ...
Parfumerie Generale Will Be Carried by Aepure - Update {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}
Parfumerie Générale, a niche perfumery founded and led by perfumer Pierre Guillaume, will now be showcased in a brick-and-mortar store in Paris, France called Aépure from April 2009. Update: it is not the first flagship store of the brand as the announcement seemed to imply a bit ambiguously, just another selling point for PG that is going to open soon...
Signed Bottle of Stetson All American Giveaway {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume}
We have a special blog giveaway to announce today. Fans of Tom Brady and the Patriots, football fans or simply plain patriots (arguably) can enter a giveaway to win a collectible autographed bottle of the latest Stetson fragrance, All American, signed by Tom Brady. The football quarterback has been the spokesperson for Stetson since 2007.
You just need to leave a comment below and you will be entered in the draw. (Only US-based readers please.) Results will be announced next week.
Some information about the perfume:
"All
American Stetson is a fresh, modern, new addition to the Stetson
fragrance family. Best described as an aromatic woody fragrance, All
American Stetson features notes of black suede (spokesman Tom Brady's
self-professed favorite), cedar leaf, ginger, musk, and fresh water
ferns. Developed by master perfumer Harry Fremont of Firmenich, All
American Stetson is for the fun-loving, athletic, adventurous and
rugged "All American" guy. The fragrance is available now at mass
retailers and retails for $14.50 - $26.00."...
Paris Hilton Named Celebrity of the Year by The Fragrance Foundation {Fragrance News}
Paris Hilton at her birthday bash on March 8, 2009at the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino in Las Vegas, Nevada
Paris Hilton, the celebrity that everyone loves to hate, has been picked as the Celebrity of the Year by The Fragrance Foundation. She will receive a FiFi in person at the The Downtown Armory on May 27, 2009.
This prize is a reinstated Celebrity FiFi Award that was given to J Lo in 2003 and then discontinued...
Le Labo Balms (2009): New Silicone-Based Perfumes {Fragrance News} {New Packaging}
Le Labo has launched a range of silicone-based perfumes of their library of scents called Balms. They are available at Colette.fr (which has gone web 2.0) in 10 ml basic spray containers in keeping with the spare lab atmosphere of the brand.
"This new alcohol-free silicone blend is simply a new way to perfume yourself. A more intimate, delicate and personal gesture that suits people who per [that part is missing]..."
Lee Cooper, the legendary jeanswear brand which feted its 100th anniversary in 2008 have announced that they will launch their first fragrance at the beginning of 2010. The denim brand has partnered with the Jacques Bogart group specializing in cosmetics, skin care and fragrances to design their upcoming scents. Some of the other brands covered by the group are: Jacques Bogart, Ted Lapidus, Faconnable, Jeanne Piaubert, Stendhal, Bugatti, Chevignon, Naf Naf.
Bond No. 9 Perfume Bottle Design Contest for Brooklyn {Fragrance News}
Bond No. 9 is looking for talented graphic designers or just plain simply talented people to enter a design for their new perfume Brooklyn (flacon pictured there). They already have launched it with an original design but would like to use the surface of the bottle as an art street scene, if you will, a blank surface to be filled in. It does NOT have to be inspired by art street though. So how should a bottle of perfume about Brooklyn look like according to YOU? Deadline is March 31st, 2009,
"When
we introduced our latest fragrance, Brooklyn, last month, its
breakthrough street-art surface design brought praise and a barrage of
responses. Well, we already knew that aficionados of the borough of Brooklyn can be opinionated.
But so many strong opinions reached us about what a Brooklyn bottle
could look like that we realized we'd better offer more options if we knew what was good for us. So throughout March 2009, Bond No. 9 invites everyone--amateurs and artists alike--to join our Brooklyn Bottle Design Competitionand create additional visuals for this contemporary male-oriented cardamom-cedarwood eau de parfum."...
The Cosmetic Executive Women Awards (CEW) have published their entries for 2009. The lists in the different perfume and beauty categories are very comprehensive so I will only highlight a few of the scents and invite you to visit their pages, the Viewbook in particular.
There is only one category for "Men's Scent" while women's perfumes are represented in "Women's Scent Mass" and "Women's Scent Prestige". The bulk of the entries are displayed in beauty categories.
Czech & Speake of Jermyn Street To Re-Launch 3 Old Favorites: Rose, Mimosa, Dark Rose (2009) {Fragrance News} {New Perfumes}
The luxury bathroom and bath specialistsCzech and Speake are preparing to re-launch three old favorites from their perfume, or as they prefer to phrase it, "Aromatics" line inaugurated in 1980. A perennial favorite is No. 88 (1981), a dark incense-y rose composition beloved by men, which has remained in production. Now another variation on this theme of the slightly Gothic Brontëan masculine British rose scent worthy of a Heathcliff character will be developed anew with Dark Rose originally introduced in 2003. A lighter, greener Rose dating back to 1985 joins the collection again too, as well as a different floral homage, the sunny Mimosa (1st version, 1986).
Dark Rose, is "A rich and intense perfume. The spicy note of saffron is combined with
an elegant bouquet of Bulgarian Rose in the top note. Middle notes
feature a mixture of exotic woods, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Oudh
unveiling a dry down of liquid amber and white musk."...
Marcel Duchamp Belle Haleine Eau de Voilette Exceeds Christie's Expectations {Fragrance News}
As previously reported, the iconic Marcel Duchamp Dadaist perfume bottle Belle Haleine Eau de Voilette where Duchamp appears dressed as Rrose Sélavy and is photographed by Man Ray, was up for sale at the historic Christie's auction for the Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé Collection. WWD reports that in a context of defied expectations for a number of lots, "Then Duchamp's rare work "Belle Haleine Eau de Voilette" sold for 7.9
million euros, or $9.9 million, versus a high estimate of 1.5 million
euros, or $1.9 million."
German Duftstars 2009: Finalists for Best Perfume {Fragrance News}
The German branch of The Fragrance Foundation has announced its list of nominees for the Duftstars or best perfumes for 2009. The 8 competing categories are: Masculine and feminine in Classics; Masculine and feminine in Luxury Fragrances; Masculine and feminine in Niche; Masculine and feminine in Lifestyle.
Kategorie: Klassiker - The Classics
Damen - Women
Bulgari - BVLGARI pour femme
Chanel - Allure
Clinique - Aromatics Elixir
Jean Paul Gaultier - Classique
Jil Sander - SUN
Herren- Men
Azzaro - Azzaro pour homme
Bulgari - BVLGARI pour homme
Chanel - Egoiste
IsseyMiyake - L'Eau d'Issey pour homme
Jean Paul Gaultier - Le Male...
The 2009 FIFI Awards: When, Where & New Award Categories {Fragrance News}
The annual FIFI Awards organized by The Fragrance Foundation will take place on Wednesday May 27th 2009 at The Downtown Amory in New York City. This year, the added news are that 3 new award categories have been created. The newborn categories are: Unique Boutique, Best In Blog (a story in excess of 500 words), and Perfume Extraordinaire of the Year 2008 ("recognizing the actual 'juice' of a fine fragrance"). For the latter, "Judging is based upon depth & staying power, innovation (new, unusual or groundbreaking raw materials), creativity (new approach to perfumery), craft (unusual structure), signature (unique identity).
Rochelle Bloom President of the Fragrance Foundation said,
"We have created three additional award categories this year to
showcase and encourage the new, the inventive, the original, adding to
the spirit of the evening, " notes Rochelle Bloom "including Unique
Boutique honoring visionary entrepreneurs, Best in Blog embracing our
newest information highway and Perfume Extraordinaire recognizing the
actual "juice" of a fine fragrance."
Etruscan Perfume To Reveal Its Secrets {Fragrance News}
It will reportedly be possible to get an idea of how the Etruscans scented themselves, or their dead, as a funerary Etruscan perfume vase made of alabaster excavated in 2005 contains enough perfume oils to be analyzed and reconstituted.
The vase is currently part of an exhibition in Chiusi, Sienna and belongs to the funerary trousseau of a woman dating back to the 2nd century before the common era.
Although some people expressed misgivings regarding the creation of a new flanker to the classic Mitsouko by Guerlain (1919), titled Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus, featuring an all-too-audacious aquatic floral note, the field report is that the new aqua blue impersonation of the famous perfume did not wait for the recognition of critics to fly off the shelves of the flagship Guerlain boutique in Paris. And this, in a matter of just a few days...
Francis Kurkdjian Honored by French Government {Fragrance World News}
Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, author of Le Mâle, Fleur du Mâle, Le Sillage de la Reine, Indult fragrances, and so many other fragrances in varied sectors of perfumery will be honored by the French government with the decoration of the Chevalier dans l'ordre des Arts et des Lettres. He has already received the distinction of being awarded the prestigious Coty prize in 2001.
Caron Is Beating The Recession With Ales Groupe {Fragrance News}
Caron established in 1904 by Ernest Daltroff and now under the guidance of the Alès Groupe is reporting a growth in its fragrance business despite the downturn of the economy in general.
This is especially apparent in the French market, its main perfume market although total sales have progressed internationally 5,2%...
Caron Montaigne in the Volez-Le (Steal It) 2008 limited-edition flacon.
John Galliano Rose Gold Charm Bracelet {Fragrance News - Perfume Jewelry}
Following the launch of his debut signature perfume under his own label, John Galliano EDP, designer John Galliano has created a bracelet called the Rose Gold Charm Bracelet...
Sean Combs' Unforgivable Allegedly Plagiarizes Art Glass by Tom Patti {Fragrance News}
Top: Compacted Gray with Clear and Ribs by Tom Patti.
Bottom: Unforgivable by Sean John
Four years after the launch of the blockbuster fragrance for men Unforgivable by Sean Diddy Combs (2005), a lawsuit alleges that the perfume flacon is a plagiarism of two works by glass artist Tom Patti...
Guerlain Fleurs de Shalimar - Shalimar Flowers Limited Editions: The Flower Behind The Pod {Fragrance News}
There are some fragrances you love so much that you are glad when you can rhapsodize further about them by laying another variation of them on your dressing table. Unconditionals of Shalimar will be pleased to learn that this spring, they will have one more, nay, two more reasons to re-buy their beloved fragrance.
Guerlain will release two new limited-editions of Shalimar Eau de Parfum and Eau de Shalimar called Fleurs de Shalimar - Shalimar Flowers. The limited-edition collection wishes to pay a design homage to the vanilla blossom so characteristic of the Guerlain signature by decorating the flacons with white and black etched orchids. This floral motif is also one that is richly illustrated in the arts in general and will be of interest to orchid collectors.
"Among all the marvels of the Gardens of Shalimar, vanilla is one of the most bewitching and sensual. Protective of its own rarity, it only blossoms for a few hours at sunrise. To celebrate this quiet, intimate moment with vanilla flowers and to capture a second of eternity, Guerlain etched its blossoms on the Shalimar bottle."…
Perfume Greed by Francesco Vezzoli, Part the 2nd {Fragrance News}
Following up on a previous announcement on an art project by media artist Francesco Vezzoli devoted to capturing the essence of Greed, the perfume (I wonder where they got the idea of that association from?), here is an early teaser of the short movie by Roman Polanski.
People love to see two women fight, say in a pool of mud. How exquisite that it should be over a perfume bottle...
As part of a lawsuit settlement regarding price-fixing, there will be free nationwide distribution of cosmetics and perfumes starting on the morning of Tuesday January 20th 2009, coincidentally on Inauguration Day. Sounds really festive, doesn't it? Instead of bread and circus, clamor for your Chanel and Dior,
"As part of the lawsuit's settlement, $175 million worth of cosmetics will be given away, one per person, in a first-come, first-served basis.
Consumers will be able to choose one item per person as long as supplies last.
At some Macy's stores, for example, the free products will be set on tables in the cosmetics department so consumers can just take them from there.
Name brands being given away include Chanel, L'Oreal, Estée Lauder, Clinique, Lancome, Clarins, Guerlain, Givenchy, Boucheron, Cody, Calvin Klein and Christian Dior.
The products involve mascara, skin care, moisturizers and fragrances, according to the Macy's release.
The offer will last until all of the products in a particular store are given out."...
Would Balenciaga simply be used for new creations more adapted to the contemporary market and the new image of the house under Nicolas Ghesquière? Would the brand think it desirable to recreate their prestigious fragrances of the past and decide to delve into their archives?...
Top 10 Most Iconic Fragrances of All Time according to UK survey & Top 3 Bestsellers in France {Fragrance News}
Chanel No. 5, New China Series, 2007 by Chinese artist Ma Jun -- The Chanel No. 5 bottle is so iconic it appears still recognizable in the glazed Chinese ceramic medium.
(A bottle of No. 5 is said to be sold every 55 seconds around the globe.)
According to a survey conducted by the Superdrug store chain in Great Britain, the top cult fragrance of all time is considered to be Chanel No. 5 - the oldest composition also in this survey - based on perceptions of the women respondents in the UK who were polled in November 2008. The survey included 2000 participants. The next two are CK One (2) and Eternity (3), both by Calvin Klein.
Next, we have Coco by Chanel (4), then Dior Poison (5), Ghost by Ghost (6) a very popular scent in the UK which is less often mentioned in the US and France...
As stated earlier this vanilla-composition endeavor can be summed up as being paradoxical from the get-go. It is interesting to consider put both in the context of Ellena's personal diaphanous (yet sensual) aesthetics and his own self-confessed reluctance and difficulty in working the vanilla note. It is also meaningful to view it put in perspective with other recent vanilla perfume compositions. In a sense, just like the rose with its multivariegated nuances is the queen of flowers, the vanilla bean can be seen and is to some extent seen as the queen of spices with its hundreds of natural components in addition to vanillin. It is however more common to encounter vanilla as a supporting element than as the focus of a perfumery study stripped off of other distracting associations...
Rich Hippie whose tag line is "Organic, Wildcrafted Perfumes" have launched a new packaging option for their scents consisting in smaller 1/8 oz roll-ons to be slipped in your purse or pocket...
Parfum Sur Mesure: A New Bespoke Fragrance Service {Fragrance News}
Parisian perfumer Stéphanie de Bruijn has created a new bespoke fragrance business whose core mission is to provide the same kind of service one can get from Guerlain or Cartier but at more democratically priced rates.
After watching the Obama campaign and better realizing the effectiveness of the internet, she decided to be both of Paris and of the World Wide Web (ok, this is just said in jest), opening a window onto the exclusive world of French custom-made fragrances on the internet.
You can now say, my perfumer in Paris created this little nothing for me, to my specifications...
Serge Lutens Chergui Now in Export Format {Fragrance News}
Chergui, a best-seller of the Serge Lutens non-export range (the bell-jar collection) is now available in the export range. It is priced at 79 € for 50 ml.
Interesting Hybrid Perfuming Concept by Memo: Grapefruit from Argentina & Orange Blossom from Italy (2008) {Fragrance News}
Belatedly but still interestingly we learn that French niche brand Memo launched two organic companion scents, certified Ecocert, to their latest release Jannat. It looks like what the Mediterranean diet is to vegetarian diet, that is less purist in terms of forsaking animal proteins but still reducing them and trying to reach a good balance...
Body-care news from L'Occitane en Provence, which will introduce new scents in January 2009 in its Shea Butter range: rose, vanilla, frangipani,
ylang-ylang and acacia. Each item is priced at $21 for 3.4 oz. The original Shea Butter cream gets repackaged, $38 for 7 oz.
In February an eau de toilette ($46), will join the Honey Lemon collection featuring "sweeter base notes of apricot and vanilla" together with a massage oil ($17) in the same scent as the edt.
No name is given thus far, but it sounds like a flanker rather than a frankly-announced reformulation although the phrasing is a bit ambiguous. Also expect to see a new lip gloss for $9 and a
candle for $23, in the same range.
L'Occitane is having a big sale right now: up to 50% off on 150 products.
The most Byronian of French perfume brands, By Kilian, have announced that they will launch an eighth scent in September 2009. Details are kept at a minimum for now. The cat came out partially out of the bag however as we learn that the new perfume might possibly (hint, hint) include a tobacco and woods accord. It will be developed by perfumer Calice Becker of Givaudan who already partnered with founder Kilian Hennessy to create five out of the seven existing perfumes...
Faux Perfume Commercial Ad by Roman Polanski for Greed & Real Art Project by Francesco Vezzoli {Fragrance News} {Cultural Notes}
Italian video artist Francesco Vezzoli has decided to illustrate the theme of greed in the art world with the support of a faux perfume commercial for Greed shot by none other than movie director Roman Polanski and featuring actresses Natalie Portman and Michelle Williams. The idea came to Vezzoli as he noticed that the world of art is more and more about the construction of desire, that is, yes, more and more like a bottle of perfume on which you are made to want to drool and that you covet.
From the perspective of someone more into the world of perfume this realistic take can sound ironic at a time when a good contingent of people are desirous to bring to perfume the recognition that it is an art form first and foremost. What kind of art do you mean? one might ask. The latest news are that art has turned into a market full of commodities!
The faux perfume commercial will debut at the Gagosian Gallery in Rome on February 6th 2009...
Perfume Packaging Awards Commentary by CPC {Fragrant Reading} {Fragrance News}
The CPC Packaging magazine have two features on perfume and beauty packaging explaining why these stood out from the hundreds of new launches in 2008. They look for innovation, however discreet, and technical challenges overcome by the design team rather than pure aesthetic beauty (cf. for example the 3121 packaging for Prince's scent).
Here's their commentary on the 2008 Fifi Awards for perfume packaging,
"Great minds think alike" is a saying that often rings true when it
comes to fragrance package design. Looking at the past year's fragrance
launches, it seems that some marketers were inspired by the same
trends. However, each trend was interpreted uniquely for each fragrance
bottle."...
Objets du Parfum (2008) {Fragrant Reading - New Book} {Fragrance News}
A new book dedicated to perfume objects called Objets du Parfum: confidences d'un collectionneur has been newly available since the end of November 2008 for those interested in the history of perfumery and the applied artistic manifestations it encourages.
The collector alluded to in the title is Jean François Costa a member of the families that make up the Fragonard perfumery and an avid collector as well as fragrance industrialist...
Jean Paul Gaultier Musical Coffrets (2008), Bijou Parfume (2009) {Fragrance News}
Jean Paul Gaultier is bringing his designer's mind to perfume by offering more varied supports for it than the traditional fragrance bottle. The novelty trend, an always popular one during the holidays, will be illustrated with a charms necklace and musical boxes.
For the end of the year 2008, the brand has released a collection of musical Christmas coffrets containing Classique, Le Mâle, and Fleur du Mâle respectively. Classique slides open to the tune of Love Me Tender sung by Elvis Presley and Le Mâle and Fleur du Mâle both to that of The Entertainer interpreted by Scott Joplin.
"The Classique coffret, which contains a 100ml edt and a body lotion, is
priced at €72. The Le Male set, comprising a 125ml edt and all-over
shower gel, is €57. The Fleur du Male coffret, which also features a
125ml edt and shower gel, retails at €59."...
Prada Amber on the Silver Screen: Fallen Shadows {Fragrance News} {Scented Images}
Prada who would get bored if they had to run conventional advertising campaigns for their perfumes is once more turning to the silver screen to help promote both Prada Amber and the arts.
Until December 31, 2008 Amber is the main character of a short animated film entitled Fallen Shadows by James Lima shown in 300 Italian movie theaters before and after the main feature. The Fallen Shadows campaign also appears in the press in Italy, UK, and US...
Samsung E 250 Cacharel Cellphone Smells of Amor Amor...ou presque {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Shopping}
Samsung is continuing to play the olfactory card and this time hopes to attract female customers that are attuned to the perfume and beauty worlds as well as brands. After their anonymous aromatherapeutic lavender-scented cellphone, the Korean brand now just launched in France a new cellphone co-branded with Cacharel, the E250, which comes together with a beauty coffret containing a Sensual Milk for the body and a bottle of Amor Amor Eau de Toilette. The design of the cellphone has been made to look the part, with a feminine, flowery decor,
"Samsung et Cacharel se sont associés pour concocter un mobile empreint de sensualité et de féminité. Ce E250 est en effet aussi élégant à l'extérieur qu'à l'intérieur (fonds d'écrans spécifiques). Mieux, ce mobile est fourni avec un coffret de beauté Cacharel. N'attendez pas la Saint Valentin pour faire plaisir à votre chère et tendre."...
Archaeologists Find Unguents in Magdala Dating Back to Christ's Time {Fragrance News} {Cultural Notes}
Marie-Madeleine by Quentin Metsys (1465/66-1530), Musée du Louvre
Mary of Magdala or Mary Magdalene or Marie Madeleine in French is very often represented in Christian iconography with an emblematic pot of unguents or a perfume flacon as she is the one who used perfume - one of the most expensive kinds it is said - to anoint Christ's feet and dry them with her red hair. She is also considered to be the patroness-saint of perfumers as well as hairdressers, prostitutes, and gardeners.
For a group of Franciscan archaeologists from the group Studium Biblicum Franciscanum, the discovery of perfume containers dating back to Christ's time in Magdala in today's Israel is therefore of great potential significance,...
One of the perfume/unguent phials found on the Magdala site
Maison Francis Kurkdjian To Open by Summer 2009: New Fragrance House Goes Beyond The Niche Concept & Opts for Pluralism {Fragrance News}
Francis Kurkdjian at the French embassy in Washington D.C. in June 2008
Renowned perfumer Francis Kurkdjian who already operates independently as a bespoke perfumer (also see his malle du parfumeur) aside from his Takasago corporate affiliation has announced that he will establish his own fragrance house in Paris by summer 2009.
It will be called Maison Francis Kurkdjian and will be located in the first arrondissement of the French capital city.
The name Maison Francis Kurkdjian promises to recover a new multi-layered reality of the perfume scene and perhaps inspire others in the future. One of the things it is not? A brand, bien sûr.
The interesting aspect of this non-brand project is the complexity and comprehensiveness of the concept that guides the foundation of the perfume house and its aim in particular to go beyond the by now classic concept of "niche perfumery"....
Marc Jacobs Daisy Blooms (2009): Young and Younger {Fragrance News - Limited Edition}
Fans of Marc Jacobs Daisy will be pleased to know that a limited-edition titled Daisy Blooms, the Sticker - Autocollants Edition will be out in February 2009...
Fragrances of the World 2009 Silver Anniversary Edition {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading}
Like each year since 1984, author and arguably pillar of the fragrance industry Michael Edwards publishes a new augmented edition of Fragrances of the World, a compendium of the fragrances that are available in the international market in designer but also niche categories (since 1998) while also listing new flankers and limited-editions. Its comprehensive and cumulative character has earned it the nickname of the "Retail Bible" (of the perfume industry).
For the 25th anniversary of Fragrances of the World, Michael Edwards is marking the jubilee with a special edition titled the Silver Anniversary Edition. According to the press release,
"Fragrances
of the World 2009 classifies over 6,500 fragrances and adds more than 800 new
releases."...
Social Creatures Frankfurt Kitchen for Women (2008) {New Perfume} {Fragrance News}
Last year, we announced the debut of Social Creatures a new brand of perfumeswith a conceptual outlook, artisan sensitivity, and professing the manifest belief that perfume is imbricated within the fabric of society and history. They also believe in intuition,
"Trust your intuition: usually your first subconscious judgment about a new situation is based on how it smells."
The latest news are that they have finally launched the pre-announced Frankfurt Kitchen, a feminine fragrance "...inspired by the progressist kitchen designed by Margarete Schütte-Lihotzky in 1926," It has taken them a total of 3 years to develop the composition and while it had been scheduled for release in December 2007, it has been introduced only this month...
Vivienne Westwood Honoree of 2008 UK Circle of Champions {Fragrance News}
Vivienne Westwood at the Chaos Point Gala Dinner on November 18, 2008
After Sir Paul Smith last year, fashion designer Dame Vivienne Westwood was honored with the 2nd award of the UK Circle of Champions given by the US Fragrance Foundation, on November 19th 2008. The membership recognizes a personality's notable contribution to the fragrance industry...
A Brave Article on Bespoke Perfumes in a Frayed Economy - L'Artisan's New Bet on Deep Pockets (The 5th Sense in the News} {Fragrance News}
L'Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numéro
The International Herald Tribune has a piece on bespoke perfumery in which Cartier, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Guerlain and Francis Kurkdjian are featured.
As long as the brands can sell a few or just only one perfume priced at $20 000 or 40 000 €, it seems to make a lot of sense to focus one's target on to the rich in a troubled economy.
L'Artisan Parfumeur for instance is launching in January 2009 a collection of unique creations called Mon Numéro, housed in similarly one-of-a-kind flacons hand-blown by master glazier Pascale Riberolles. It will remain a Paris exclusive though.
Jean-Michel Duriez Named In-House Perfumer at Rochas {Fragrance News}
The wave of appointments of in-house perfumers continues to garner momentum. After its forerunner, Hermès, then Dior, also L'Artisan Parfumeur and last but not least, Guerlain, Rochas is also counting on a thorough refurbishing of its image that comes with the revival of the once dwindling public figure of the in-house perfumer despite Chanel's exceptionalism.
Women's Wear Daily has announced today that Jean-Michel Duriez who so far was associated in this capacity with the house of Jean Patou, will fulfill the same function at Rochas, a brand also owned by the Procter & Gamble group...
Jo Malone is inviting you to study Pomegranate Noir cologne in a way this fall, by introducing the Tasting Kit.
Ok, this is not a new fruit-laden lady's liqueur by Jo Malone, so don't drink it just yet!
Do you remember that scene in Gone With The Wind where Scarlett O'Hara cunningly (ahem) guzzles down a partial bottle of Eau de Cologne to cover her unladylike whiskey breath? A nice idea that has not yet been marketed in this day and age because thanks to social progress you can still be perceived as being a lady while wafting of Johnnie Walker, so this is not it...
Article on Vanilla & Preview of Upcoming Hermes Vanille Galante {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading} {Scented Thoughts}
Vanilla, which has been in the recent past showcased as a main source of inspiration for perfumes such as Tihota by Indult composed by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian and Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain created by Jean-Paul Guerlain, while being announced as a key note in the upcoming Vanille Galante by Hermès in the Hermessence series, a work by Jean-Claude Ellena, has visibly awoken the interests of some of the major perfumers of the day.
L'Express is devoting an article to this beloved, indispensable ingredient of perfumery in more or less high doses including a Q & A with perfumer Jean-Paul Duriez of the house of Patou.
From that article we excerpt, translate and comment on a quote regarding the new Vanille Galante (Flirtatious Vanilla) to be launched in February 2009...
Lalique Museum to Open in 2010 at Wingen-sur-Moder {Fragrance News}
Last Saturday November 8th 2008, a ceremony was held at Wingen-sur-Moder in the Bas-Rhin region of France to set the first stone of the building that is going to become the Musée Lalique, a new French state museum, which will house the most important collection of René Lalique's works...
I Profumi Di Firenze Essendo (2006): Another Homage (A Lost One) to Patrick Suskind {Perfume History & Facts}
When the movie Perfume came out in 2006 (see our movie review), one knew that Thierry Mugler had been concocting an ambitious project, that of translating Patrick Süskind's narrative into real perfumes created by perfumers Christophe Laudamiel and Christophe Hornetz. The Mugler coffret, with its 15 scents (see also First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret), was the talk of the town towards the end of 2006 (and I have yet to review it fully although I will eventually get there, if only to recapture that highly exciting period of discovery)...
Mark Ecko To Launch Men's Fragrance in 2009 {Fragrance News}
Youth apparel brand Mark Ecko have announced that they will start venturing in the world of fragrance development with perfumes for both men and women. The first one will be a masculine debuting in the fall of 2009. Their fragrance licensee is Parlux Fragrances (Maria Sharapova, Paris Hilton Can Can, Fairy Dust...). Parlux chairman and ceo Neil Katz said,
"With the Marc Ecko addition to our fragrance portfolio, Parlux will
target yet another consumer group," "We see Marc Ecko's appeal as worldwide and a key
part of our strategic plan." (Cosmetic News)
Photos courtesy of the Society of American Perfumers
This year, the Perfumers Choice Awards 2008 wanted to place their event under the guidance of two inspirational quotes from two women captains of industry to help members of the profession make the final selection of the winners for the PCAs awards (please see previous list of nominees). One is a reminder about the necessity to be creative and is from Coco Chanel who said "In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different," and the other is about the simple pragmatic reason for promoting standards of excellence and is by Estée Lauder who liked to remind people that "If you put the product into the customer's hands, it will speak for itself if it's something of quality."
Perhaps these remarks intervened in an era when advertising for beauty and fragrance products was less important than it is today and image less critical, but one can still, despite this evolution, and in fact, more so than ever precisely because of these new developments, agree with these premises.
The winners for 2008 are:
November 12, 2008
The American Society of Perfumers 2008 Perfumers Choice Awards Winners Announced
Carol's Daughter 1st Celebrity Perfume: Mary J Blige My Life (2009) {New Perfume} {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Fragrance}
Following the recent launch of their first fine fragrance composition called Pearls, bath and body brand Carol's Daughter, who might be looking to emulate a brand like Fresh purveyor of both bath and body and fine perfumes, is preparing to launch their first celebrity perfume inspired by singer MaryJ Blige and named after her album entitled My Life. The artist has been working as one of the brand's celebrity spokespersons and is apparently thrilled by the project as she confesses to being a hard-core beauty junkie,
"I am Carol's Daughter and my fans are Carol's Daughter users so it
just made sense to partner," Blige said in an interview last month.
"Ever since I was a child, I loved buying products that made me feel
beautiful and clean," said Blige. "I'm a total beauty nut -- you should
check out all the junk in my bathroom." (Via WWD)
Perfumer Dominique Ropion of International Fragrances and Flavors was awarded the 2008 International Cosmetic Valley Prize. Since 2000, when it was first founded as the François Coty prize by perfumer Nicolas de Barry, this award has annually recognized a perfumer from the industry for its overall career achievement and also for an important perfume created that same year.
The prize was renamed last year in 2007 as the Prix International de la Cosmetic Valley. In the past, previous awards went to Francis Kukdjian (2001), Maurice Roucel (2002), Alberto Morillas (2003), Jacques Cavallier (2004), Sophie Labbé (2005),Lorenzo Villoresi (2006), and Christine Nagel (2007)...
US Female Consumers Prefer to Spend on Well-Tested Perfumes {Fragrance News}
According to an October 8th 2008 market research of the NPD Group, the tendency, already seen last year, for US women to turn to the classic or the familiar when it came to buying perfume is showing no signs of abating. The current economic context is probably going to support further developing of this trend. But according to that report, US women are nevertheless still interested in perfuming themselves, more so than last year for the same period and more so than men this year, unless the latter are using different strategies for scenting themselves than can be tracked down by consumer spending in the mainstream channels like the beauty prestige one...
Rafael Nadal to be Face of New Lanvin Men's Scent {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume}
Lanvin have announced that tennis champion Rafael Nadal will be the spokesperson for their upcoming new line of men's scents called Lanvin L'Homme Sport. Nadal has been ranked #1 tennis player in the world since August 2008.
The first perfume in the line, which will be developed by Lanvin's fragrance licensee Inter Parfums SA, is scheduled to launch in the summer of 2009. (Via WWD)
Fresh Patchouli Pure & Tobacco Caramel Alive Again - Fragrance News
Fresh has re-edited two perfumes from their catalog in the Index collection, Patchouli Pure and Tobacco Caramel originally introduced in 2001 and 1999 respectively. They were discontinued two years ago and are back by popular demand. Tobacco Caramel, in spite of its reference to the voice of Billie Holiday, is explicitly billed as an unisex scent.
Patchouli Pure is an "An intoxicatingly fragrant blend of ginger, patchouli, cinnamon, and vanilla."
Tobacco Caramel is "Infused with voluptuous notes such as tobacco flowers, French tarragon and rich amber."...
2008 Perfumers Choice Awards, Part 2: List of Nominees {Fragrance News}
After posting about the event, I received further information. The Perfumers Choice Awards, besides the more classic fine-fragrance categories, offers an interesting array of categories not found in other awards ceremonies in the industry, such as Laundry Detergents, Candles, Fragranced Line Extension, and even more technical, Challenging Bases. The PCA Awards furthermore pays attention to scent in both perfumery and beauty products.
What I see is a list of great recommendations! And it can only help further consumers' understanding and appreciation of the art and craft of perfumery.
Here is the list of products that were nominated in 2008. Perfume aficionados will also be interested to know that they define categories such as eco-friendly fragrances and baby/children fragrances, that do not appear in other competitions. Fine Fragrance: Women's classic Beautiful By Estee lauder Paloma Picasso by L'Oréal Opium By Yves Saint Laurent (see also our review of Opium Poésie de Chine)
Fine Fragrance: men's classic Eternity By Calvin Klein Fahrenheit By lvmh (see Fahrenheit 32) Obsession By Calvin Klein...
2008 Perfumers Choice Awards on November 11 - Tony Sirico Paolo per Uomo {Fragrance News} {New Perfume}
The American Society of Perfumers was established in 1947. It is currently headed by president Marvel Fields and vice-president Jim Krivda. The upcoming Perfumers Choice Awards will showcase the debut perfume by actor Tony Sirico from the Soprano series, called Paolo per Uomo.
From the press release,
"The American Society of
Perfumers, Inc. (ASP) will host its Perfumers Choice Awards ceremony on
Tuesday, November 11, 2008 from 6:30 to 10:30 pm at Tribeca Rooftop in New York
City. The annual fragrance industry award event acknowledges outstanding
individuals, consumer products, and corporations in the US fragrance industry,
with the winners chosen by their peers."...
The Soprano cast at the 14th annual screen actors guild awards on January 27, 2008. Tony Sirico is second from left.
The president of the Fragrance Foundation Rochelle Bloom went to Dubai recently to sign an agreement to set up a chapter of the foundation which will cover the Middle East market.
Cosmetics International has now confirmed that the new branch, called Fragrance Foundation Arabia is based in Dubai and is headed by chairman Shahzad Haider and president Grit Pannier...
Avon Bond Girl 007: Interviews with Gemma Aterton, Olivier Cresp + TV Ad {Fragrance News} {New Perfume Advert}
Ok, so you weren't able to make it to the world premiere of the new James Bond movie, Quantum of Solace in London yesterday (you wanted to have first dibs on the new Avon fragrance Bond Girl 007 of course).
The next best thing is to listen to Gemma Aterton talking about the perfume, take a peek at the behind-the-scenes and even - surprise! - listen to perfumer Olivier Cresp explaining his ideas for the perfume he helped create. It had to be both attractive and dangerous, says he. I am ready to believe Avon can put the equivalent of some kind of
perfumery glutaminate of sodium in their scents because their Wish of
Happiness seemed to operate exactly at that level.
So we get the addictive part for the drydown but then he adds that the top notes are sparkling. Is that supposed to mean dangerous as in an overdose of champagne?
Watch the commercial and then the interviews after the jump and let us know what you think!
Tom Ford Private Blend Rollerball Collection Gift Set {Fragrance News}: Wind of Change?
Niche perfumery is becoming increasingly mainstream as the forums, blogs and magazines attest to the phenomenon, yet sampling some of the more selective and highly-priced brands can still remain a challenge; traditionally this is considered to be part of the game.
Yet the elitist Frederic Malle brand has recently taken the step of making their perfumes available to a larger audience by setting up an online sample program; It has the advantage of being both flexible and low-cost as the price tag covers shipping only...
The house of Creed have announced that they have set up a new text-alert service to respond more efficiently to the numerous queries emanating from their fan base. According to the press release,...
The house of Floris has confirmed to TSS that they will discontinue several fragrances from their catalog "...to make way for future launches." The perfumes which are going to be withdrawn from circulation are: Vetiver, China Rose, Zinnia andeven the renownedMalmaison, a carnation scent of choice in perfumistas' circles. It is a lovely blend and will be missed for the history and charm it exudes...
Vincent Cassel to be Face of New Yves Saint Laurent Men's Fragrance {Perfume News} {Celebrity Fragrance}
French actor Vincent Cassel will lend his looks to a new masculine fragrance by Yves Saint Laurent to be launched next spring on March 2, 2009. YSL in this manner will follow up on the success of L'Homme which was well-served by the image of another French actor, Olivier Martinez...
Thieves Love Frederic Malle Perfumes {Fragrance News}
The Islington Gazette reports that a truck carrying a load of Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums fragrances was robbed. 227 bottles vanished including a contingent of the new Dans Tes Bras. I wonder how the robbers could resell those without being noticed given the selective distribution network of the brand?
"A DELIVERY driver was held at knifepoint while robbers stole eight
boxes of rare perfume worth more than £7,000 from the back of his lorry."
Balenciaga To Revive Perfume Brand {Fragrance News}
Cocoa-colored Balenciaga dress by Irving Penn, 1950
The fashion house of Balenciaga, which has received a new impulse under the stewardship of its creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, now feels the need to reach out to a broader audience.
For doing so they will turn to a well-tested venue, perfume, the most accessible form of luxury after makeup, Champagne, foie gras and designer Evian (in France).
The revival of the fragrance brand will take place under the aegis of Coty Prestige...
New Official Serge Lutens Site {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}
Fragrance aficionados will be delighted to learn that Serge Lutens has opened a new official site for the brand at http://www.sergelutens.com. It showcases a number of interesting, never-seen-before pictures, quotes, a short expressionist film that was selected for the Cannes festival in 1974, and last but not least a reorganization of the Lutens catalog of perfumes into three categories: flacons de table (the bell-jars); flacons beiges (the eaux de parfum); flacons noirs (the eaux de parfum haute concentration). The latter perfumes were thought by Serge Lutens himself to perform best at a higher concentration. The Collection Beige and Collection Noire in particular structure this universe as they offer the color theme for the new place...
Boots Pharmacy chain has become interested in the archives of an old British perfume house from the turn of the 20th century named Girard & Cie and decided to resurrect the brand. They have relaunched two fragrances from the 1920s as well as taken the opportunity to introduce three new scents under the same historic label. Girard & Cie, sometimes with a Mme before its name originally opened a shop in London in Regent Street...
A Luxury Perfumery Is A First In Romania {Fragrance News}
La Maison des Parfums in Bucharest - don't you love the fact that you have room to breathe and contemplate the bottles with a sense of perspective instead of being hit on the head by an army of perfumes?
Romania just saw reportedly the opening of its first luxury perfume store in history. It is located in central Bucharest in a villa and was baptized with a French name, Maison Des Parfums (The House of Perfumes).
"Luxury" in this case means very expensive and niche and is not used with the same meaning as in the West where it is commonly applied to department-store fragrances. The offerings there are exclusively "niche" as we learn that for Romanian consumers, to manage to stand out from a crowd with scent is an essential and much sought-after quality. Romanians apparently are not just content with smelling good but would rather smell interesting and unique, and price is no object too making them ideal consumers for this sector of perfumery...
Schiaparelli Shocking Re-Launched By Haute Parfumerie {Fragrance News}
Shocking by Schiaparelli (1937), still currently available in its modernized form at discount stores, has now been re-launched in style and in its original formulation by the Roja Dove Haute Parfumerieat Urban Retreat at Harrods,
"Composed of over 500 ingredients, the original floral has been
re-launched in a limited edition Baccarat numbered crystal bottle, the
shape of which is based on the curvaceous torso of Mae West."
Roja Dove is an expert in historical vintage fragrances and as announced earlier, we can also expect a careful reorchestration of yet another classic, Weil Zibeline, thanks to his endeavors.
For more information or mail order please telephone 020 7893 8797
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